Dispatch
from Sri Lanka:
17/2 (Day 2): Arrive in Colombo to be greeted by what appears to be the white goods shopping district of Sri Lanka.
Washing machines, fridges, microwaves etc. - all duty-free. Should I write a book
called "Round Sri Lanka with an Air Conditioning Unit"? This could be part of a series including
"Ducks Don't Float in Lhasa" and "A Forest Without Trees".
At the hotel, I was faced with a few moments of trepidation when I realised that the very friendly barber
had actually understood that I'd asked him to give me a #1 all over. Now I look like Buddha
and can rightfully assume my nom-de-voyage "Sri Baba Hadden San".
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18/2 (Day 3): Walk into downtown Negombo. Shop signs include:
- "Unofficial Magistrate"
- "Scientific Tailors"
- "Notary - Specialist In Unexplained Deaths"
20/2 (Day 5): Steven Shaw demonstrating himself to be the fine teacher that his reputation had led me to expect.
His method breaks down each stroke (we are doing front crawl) into its constituent parts, around
18 of them. This allows analysis in detail of elements of the stroke which take place for only
fractions of a second. Today we spent most of the time almost on our backs in the breathing
position - counterintuitive for the front crawl! In my case, a rather subtle twist
of the hips made a huge difference. Masterly tuition!
I've now been offered a lady for anything from an hour (from the gentleman on the beach)
to a lifetime (from the gentleman in the restaurant). This certainly provides a wide
range of possibilities.
22/2 (Day 7): Discovered today that the Sinhalese alphabet has, as far as I can tell, 59 characters and 22 modifying symbols!
Lunch was "Hidden Fantasy". Some mystical Sri Lankan dish, conjured up
from rare spices and hidden in a casing of exquisite delicacy? No - chicken
nuggets and chips.
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27/2 (Day 12): Started the climb of Adam's Peak at around 03:00 this morning. The path
started gently enough, with lights every 15 metres or so giving a mysterious air to the affair.
Great atmosphere - like a linear city buzzing with Asian pop, prayers, shops galore and a
steady stream of pilgrims on the way down. As the steps got steeper the air got thinner and the last
30 minutes or so were a stretch. A mass of pilgrims greeted us at the top, some sleeping under
blankets (it was cold!), others already bagging their prime spots for the sunrise. I found a spot
on the steps near the top, squashed, as we waited the 40-or-so minutes between the first glimmers of dawn
and sunrise. This wait - and the sunrise itself - were spectacular, as we looked down on lakes and
mountains peeking through the early morning clouds. My zen-like meditation was interrupted by
the awful realisation that my bladder was full and that it was some distance to the "TOI LAT"
(some sort of Kampuchean despot?) with a mass of pilgrims between me and that great relief.
I beat a hasty exit and made it (just) in time.
28/2 (Day 13): Last night dined at the Hill Club in Nurewa Eliya, a throwback to Britain's
(England's) colonial past in this former hill station. Dinner cost an outrageous 35 pounds - 15
for the food, and 20 for the gear that allowed me to eat it (shoes, trousers, shirt and a rather
fetching silver tie, all bought at a local shop for the occasion). Brigadier Fairweather-Cockball
et al in their element here, with the immaculate table settings, pork chops and formal waiters
buzzing around with a hushed servility. A vodka martini in the bar to fit my recently-acquired
secret agent status (Talia and Tommo suspect that I may be a spy). The question lingers in
my mind - what do I have to learn from this?
A farewell meal in the Oriental Sea Food Restaurant ("Our Food Is Always Good") to reflect on
a very good start to Crisis 2001 Tour. The Sri Lankans are an impressive bunch - even with
their limited resources they (mainly) had an equanimity and humanity about them that came
through in their beautifully winning smiles. And the ladies are so beautiful!
Marshel, the owner of the restaurant and my driver for my five-day tour, didn't check
the wad of cash I thrust at him as we finalised payment for his services. This seemed a
fitting way to end my short introduction to Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka - travellers' tips:
Hellmich Village, Negombo: $23 (+10%) B&B for a lovely (a/c)
cabana (i.e. a mini-bungalow) with very nice gardens.
Oriental Sea Food Restaurant, Negombo: Ask Marshel for the sea food platter!
Tree of Life, just north of Kandy: Tel: +94-08-499777. Email: treelife@sltnet.lk. Web: www.hoteltreeoflife.com.
$82 B&B, beautiful surroundings, ask for the aromatherapy!
Habarama Lodge, Habarama: $75 B&B for a serious piece of hotel architecture and a wonderful swimming pool.
Green House, Adam's Peak: Tel: +94-051-23956. Rs 600 (5 pounds) for B&B plus evening meal.
Basic facilities (bring a sleeping sheet) but great location at the start of the climb and very
friendly hosts. Excellent cat and geese available.
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